This blog kicks off with a welcome to our little home on wheels! You may be wondering – how on earth does anyone manage in one of these things and why would you want to?!? Are they really any better than a tent? Should I sell my house and all my possessions and buy one? Well, this may help answer one or two of those questions ????
Last time we left you we were wandering our way west from Murchison. Having watched numerous YouTube episodes of Aussie’s choosing their “big lap” directions, or American’s running north to south to follow the sun, we briefly wondered if we should be trying to do the same thing. But this is New Zealand! Best known for “four seasons in one day” and totally unpredictable weather (the weather report for the coming few hours is often totally wrong!)
So far we’ve had daytime lows of 11 to highs of 27, sunshine, showers, rain, wind, thunder, lightning, but no snow as yet!
For this blog, we are weaving our way back and forth across the country, enjoying the awesomeness of the Passes, the hills and valleys, plains and beaches, whether they be in moody, dark and wet backdrops, or in the glorious, bright, sunny settings, or often, all in one day ????
From Murchison, we legged it up to Mōkihinui River (north of Westport, but just before the big hill over to Karamea). The beach here was covered in driftwood and beautifully rounded river stones, in an array of colours. Not so great for beach walks, but the campground (Gentle Annie), where we stayed, had used them very effectively in their landscaping. The campground had been the culmination of a family’s journey from new settlers in the area to building and running a golf course to a stint at farming, to hosting tearooms, to a campground, and you can see aspects of the past in the current venture.
From there we headed to the end of the road, Kohaihai, and where the Heaphy Track starts, a beautiful DOC campground on a lagoon-like estuary that flows out to a dramatic west coast beach. The Heaphy Track is a 74 km, 4–6-day tramp. There had been slips on the track, so there were closures and DOC were busy with repairs, with people and supplies helicoptered in and out – made for exciting viewing – and darn it, we could only do shorter walks . . . okay, that’s all we would’ve done anyway ????
From here we did a day trip to the Oparara Arches (also closed due to slips!) – but we could view the Moira Gate and Mirror Tarn. One thing these wanders highlight is the absolutely awesome work DOC does to maintain (and improve) accessibility to these areas. We really appreciate the huge effort that goes into these tracks.
It was then on to Reefton, bypassing Westport and travelling back along part of the Buller Gorge. Different day, different conditions, different driver, better views ????. We included a short clip of this drive on Instagram ….
Reefton was a happy surprise. A very well-kept little town – lots of history, or well-presented nods to it, very good services for both residents and visitors, and friendly! We stayed about 10 minutes out of town at a DOC site next to Slab Hut creek. People came out to the creek to fossick for gold. We spoke to one enthusiastic couple from Port Waikato – said they had found gold, silver and garnet! We found …. rocks! Obviously didn’t try hard enough ????
We then headed into the Lewis Pass, and never having been this way before weren’t quite sure what we’d find. A relatively easy drive – nothing too steep or winding, framed by Beech trees. Just gorgeous.
We stayed mid-way through for a few nights before continuing on to Hanmer Springs.
Is this the next Wanaka or Queenstown? The Hanmer locals are hoping not, but it does have a cool alpine village vibe and is very tourist orientated.
We took a walk through town and stopped at the local markets, but spent most of our time walking on their forest walks (the trees were all European conifer trees, planted in the early 1900’s – felt very English – and the blackbirds were very prevalent), and climbing to the top of Conical Hill (above).
We were then keen to head towards the coast with all our water toys, so next stop was Leithfield Beach. We had glorious weather – 27 degrees one day! And the campsite was right there by the beach. However, we have been a bit spoiled by Auckland and Northland beaches. Stone beaches, strong undertows and locals recommending that we don’t swim aren’t quite our thing!
On our way towards our next Pass – Arthurs Pass – we stopped at a small town in the Canterbury Plains called Springfield. Fab camping space in the local domain, managed by a couple who for the last four years have made it their own, with lovely gardens and touches of home ???? We enjoyed exploring other small towns nearby and the local markets. Some amazingly long and straight roads in Canterbury!
Our last stay has been at a DOC camp in the middle of Arthur’s Pass, the highest of the three passes over the Southern Alps (Lewis Pass done – Haast Pass yet to come!). We’re certainly getting good opportunity to appreciate the beautiful scenery staying in these places for a few days, and seeing all kinds of weather – rather than just passing through. The leisurely walk along the Kura Tawhiti Access Track (limestone rock formations of special significance to Ngāi Tahu) and those from Arthurs Pass village again highlight the beauty all through this place.
(Left – stunning 131m waterfall on the Devils Punchbowl Walking Track, Arthur’s Pass)
Having travelled down the Pass to Otira this morning we’ve read a bit about how the initial road was built. A coach road was built from Christchurch through the Otira Gorge to the West Coast gold fields way back in 1866 – it was finished in only 10 months in atrocious conditions!
The worst we had to deal with was smoking front brakes on the ute as we headed our 6-ton rig down 16 degree inclines! Wouldn’t recommend brake-fade as a way to increase your heart-rate – stick with the rowing machine! Kaz almost got out – fortunately I wasn’t going slow enough ????
For Christmas we’re hanging out at Lake Brunner, with a roast chook on the barbie and a brandy-flamed pudding to while away the afternoon 🙂
Wishing you and yours a fabulous Christmas and Happy New Year!
Happy New Year to you both. Amazing photos and great to keep up with your adventures!
Looks like you guys are having a wonderful time!! Happy New Year, hope the weather isn’t bad where you are!.